The unfamiliar Californian grandeur

Most Californians and guests strive to visit Yosemite National Park, redwoods, Sonoran desert, and other great natural attractions – there is plenty of choices. But there is one natural attraction that is often overlooked – Carrizo Plain.

To say “overlooked” is not entirely correct – plain has been studied extensively by scientists due to its unique geology and biology. But the beauty of this unusual plain is not exactly as touristy as the overwhelming greatness of Yosemite Valley.

For the most part of the year, enormous treeless plains around the unusual Soda Lake might seem somewhat monotonous and deserted. But it is not a desert – this vast area is the largest remaining natural grassland in California, the last remnant of the arid grasslands once covering the San Joaquin Valley. The unusual landscape is supplemented by San Andreas Fault – nowhere else this giant scar is expressed that well.

If the weather during the winter has been favorable, in March-May the desolate plain is changing. Millions of bright flowers color the endless meadows. Walking between these two seemingly endless planes – the sky above and the bright carpet of flowers below – seems like being in another reality. (But stay in touch with the real world – beware of rattlesnakes, especially later, starting from late March!)

There are several species of wildflowers creating this grandeur: California goldfield (Lasthenia californica DC. ex Lindl.), lacy phacelia (Phacelia tanacetifolia Benth.), California poppies (Eschscholzia californica Cham.), tidy tips (Layia platyglossa ( Fisch. & C.A.Mey.) A.Gray) and numerous other species.

Biological richness of the Carrizo Plain is well illustrated by such finds as diamond-petaled California poppy (Eschscholzia rhombipetala Greene). This small poppy was thought to be extinct until a happy discovery of this plant in the northern part of Carrizo Plain in 1992. There are numerous other rare and endemic plants in the plain and new finds are highly possible.

Carrizo Plain is declared a National Monument in 2001 but is continuously endangered by attempts to get control over the land in order to begin a search for oil.

References

1. Wildflowers and Sightseeing. Carrizo Plain National Monument, U.S. Department of the Interior, Bureau of Land Management. Accessed on February 25, 2010.

Carrizo Plain wildflower meadows are included in the following list:

One of the best seaside poppy meadows is located at Point Buchon. Often in spring this approximately 6 km long and up to 0.8 km wide stretch of the seaside plain is covered with millions of bright orange California poppies.

Meadows in the “shadow” of nuclear plant

Diablo Canyon Power Plant is a nuclear power plant producing electricity for more than 2.2 million people. This plant is located at the sea in order to draw water for cooling. It was built in spite of powerful popular protests in the early 1980s.

There is a narrow and intermittent strip of meadows between the Pacific and Montana de Oro – former Rancho Cañada. A paved road leads to the power plant from the south and stops in the area of the plant. Of course, the nuclear power plant is guarded – thus the area north of the plant has few buildings, mostly unpaved roads, and a fence.

Golden flowers and waves of Pacific

In 2007 – 2008 it was decided that the northern access to Diablo Canyon Power Plant – Point Buchon Trail – can be opened to the public. In fact “Pacific Gas and Electric Co.” had to arrange and open this trail in exchange for the permit to build a storage facility for highly radioactive used fuel.

The trail leads from the southern border of Montana de Oro State to Crowbar Canyon north of the power plant. Access is limited – there can enter 275 hikers per day.

Meadows here are beautiful throughout the year but the flowering of poppies makes them very special in late February – April. The first spring on the newly opened trail granted an unforgettable experience. Hillsides were covered with lots of poppies and photographers were busy snatching the sight of the rough sea through the golden flowers.

Meadows here are not exactly natural – the land was used for growing crops until the late 1940s. Afterward, meadows were grazed, since 1986 land is owned by”Pacific Gas and Electric Co.” and is managed by grazing.

References

1. New Point Buchon Trail opens to public, SanLuisObispo.com The Tribune.

Point Buchon poppy meadows are included in the following list:

This area is not a part of the barren arid grassland of nearby Carrizo Plain or lush forest of Los Padres National Forest. Undulating hills with occasional groups of trees and gallery forests along Shell Creek form a lively landscape. Further, towards the north, the valley becomes arider and devoid of trees – but still is rich with spring wildflowers.

In spring, in late February – April Shell Creek Road becomes an important destination for wildflower enthusiasts and especially – for photographers. The diverse scenery and the diversity of plants provide plenty of excellent views.

Floral display for the most time is excellent, although there are less impressive years such as 2009. But even in 2009 Shell Creek still was well worth coming.

The river got its name from fossils – ancient shells.

These meadows are included in the following list:

One of the most popular routes leading into the park is Highway 140 along the Merced River. When approaching Yosemite the valley gradually becomes deeper and deeper. In springtime the beautiful landscape is supplemented by unusual sights – high hillsides on both banks of the river become colored bright orange by millions of poppies. Merced Valley poppy meadows and Hite Cove wildflower meadows belong to the most beautiful wildflower displays in this part of California.

Which poppy is it?

There is some controversy regarding the species of poppies seen in Merced River Vallery and Hite Cove. While some state that this beautiful orange flower is California poppy (Eschscholzia californica Cham.), others consider that most of these plants are tufted poppies (Eschscholzia caespitosa Benth.). Both plants are very similar and California poppy forms numerous diverse forms, thus for a non-specialist, it is not that easy to differentiate them.

Rare salamander

The poppy meadows of the hillsides of Merced valley can be observed from the car. Although this is a beautiful experience, one can’t say that this means being close to nature. Walking on these slopes is not advised – in many cases these steep hillsides are not safe. Under the stones there might be hiding unique amphibian – limestone salamander (Hydromantes brunus Gorman, 1954). This small creature lives only in this part of Merced River Valley and nowhere else in the world, it is hiding deep in the talus. An inattentive step might create landslides and kill fragile salamanders. Thus better enjoy the beautiful scenery from the road.

Hite Cove Trail

Hite Cove is named after John Hite who was searching for gold in this area in the 1860s.

One can get much closer to nature when taking a walk on the Hite Cove Trail which goes along a small tributary of Merced River. Here nature trail leads through some of the most beautiful wildflower meadows. Take a walk here in March – April, and if the weather is good, you would be overwhelmed by the beauty of this place.

Poppies are abundant along the trail, but there are numerous other interesting flowers as well: baby blue eyes (Nemophila menziesii Hook. & Arn.), Sierra blazing stars (Mentzelia crocea Kellogg), blue dicks (Dichelostemma capitatum (Benth.) Alph.Wood), yellow pincushions (Chaenactis glabriuscula DC.) and many others – more than 60 species of wildflowers in total.

References

1. Hite Cove: Flower Power, Yosemite Hikes, accessed on February 27, 2010

Poppy meadows of Merced Valley and Hite’s Cove are included in the following list:

This monument here is included due to impressive spring wildflower displays – there are few wildflower meadows in this part of California which can be compared to Dry Creek wildflower meadows regarding the size and visual impressiveness.

Gravel mine turns into preserve

In 2004 California Portland Cement Company suspended mining of gravel in their Dry Creek mine located at the lower reaches of the valley. The land of the former quarry was granted to Sequoia Riverlands Trust.

Unfortunately, the mining operations did change the landscape. Old sycamores and oaks were felled, streambed of Dry Creek was changed. Restoration activities included the re-establishment of natural stream patterns and vegetation. The diversity of the unique Californian nature is returning here. As the activities will bring more success, the area will be opened for tourism.

Beautiful dream coming true

Part of this beauty is man-made – the thorough work of nature conservation activists and landscape designers has turned the former industrial landscape into magnificent scenery. Here man has proved that he is a venerable part of nature.

If the winter has been generous with the right amount of rain at the right times – there can’t be a more beautiful place to enjoy the spring than the valley of Dry Creek. The walk through the endless cover of diverse flowers and sparse growths of sycamores with bright orange and green hillsides all around… this world can’t get more beautiful than this.

References

1. Beautiful gallery! Spring Wildflowers before the Storm, Creator’s Palette, accessed on February 27, 2010
2. Dry Creek Preserve, Sequoia Riverlands Trust website, accessed on February 27, 2010
3. Dry Creek Preserve, Visalia website, accessed on February 27, 2010
4. Wildflowers, Visalia Times Delta, accessed on February 27, 2010

Dry Creek wildflower meadows of Tulare County are included in the following list:

Ancient ecosystems of California have seen much change over the last 100 – 150 years. Fertile valleys have lured in many millions of people and nobody else is as efficient in altering the landscape as modern humans are.

In the middle of the 19th century, the vast, desolate valleys of California still were living their natural life without much interference from people. Nowadays little remains of the original landscape. Cattle, fences, irrigation, arable land, and finally – endless urban sprawl have changed the valleys beyond recognition.

Happily, there are places that still are in a more or less pristine state. Bear Valley in Colusa County is one such place. American Land Conservancy owns land in a part of this valley (14,964 acres which is equal to 6,056 ha) and preserves it to show how looked California’s intercoastal valleys and ranges before the arrival of Western civilization.

Endless fields of flowers

For the most part of the year the valley represents a desert-like, somewhat grey landscape. But, if the weather conditions during the winter have been suitable, in late February – March it changes beyond recognition.

Plains and hillsides are covered with brilliant colors. California poppy, creamcup, owl’s clover, and even the rare adobe lily create a sight of rare beauty. The otherwise desolate open landscape now becomes merit – it lets to sense the grandeur of nature and opens sight to millions of fragile flowers. If you are lucky, you manage to see all this incomprehensible wealth. If not, a few weeks later there is not much to see anymore – natural processes have wiped away all flowers to nothingness.

References

1. Plant List, Bear Valley, Walker Ridge & Surrounding Areas, California Native Plant Society, accessed on February 27, 2010

Bear Valley wildflower meadows are included in the following list:

Nearly every year in late February – April the beautiful landscape is supplemented by millions of Californian flowers. Hillsides are covered with a mix of blue and bright orange colors – blue are sky lupines and orange – the magnificent California poppies. For diversity in many locations one can see patches of magenta padre’s shooting stars (Dodecatheon clevelandii Greene), chocolate lilies (Fritillaria biflora Lindl.). In more open areas there are rich displays of goldfields (Lasthenia ssp.) and numerous other flowers.

The surroundings of Figueroa Mountain serve as a beautiful retreat for people from nearby cities. National Forest Scenic Byway (Highway 33) is winding through the Los Padres National Forest, offering an unforgettable experience for those who do not have such luxury as extra time to afford lengthy trips in the depths of the wilderness. Hundreds of miles of hiking trails there offer endless possibilities to those who can afford hefty walks or mountain biking.

In fact, visit in spring is more advisable – later in summer, there is a high risk of forest fires and visitors have more restrictions.

References

1. Figueroa Mountain Recreation Area, Celebrating Wildflowers, US Forest Service.

Figueroa Mountain poppy and lupine fields are included in the following list:

Many of the large intermontane valleys of California originally were covered with grassland – vegetation consisted mainly of grasses and other herbaceous plants. Trees for the most part were limited to sparse gallery forests along the streams (see Dry Creek as a contemporary example). In springtime vast meadows turned into an endless sea of flowers.

People have changed the landscape of California tremendously over the last 100 – 150 years. Most of the natural grassland is gone – replaced by pasture, irrigated, and built up. This turns the remaining patches of original grassland into a valuable asset of Californian nature.

Wilderness among the cities

Lake Elsinore area is located in the Greater Los Angeles Area – there are approximately 16 million people living here. The term “urban sprawl” for a while got even a synonym – “Los Angelization” due to endless quarters of private houses covering the former grassland.

Some areas near Los Angeles though have been spared of this development and are even relatively intact.

One of such places is seen from the I-15 highway between Alberhill and Lake Elsinore. On both sides of the road, there are desolate hills which for the most part of the year seem to be nearly lifeless. But in the spring – in late February – April – there happens a miraculous change – greyish hills become covered with large bright-colored patches of wildflowers.

Even more beautiful sights open to those who spend some time and effort walking uphill. Vast meadows continue to the north, to Camelot Hills, and to the south.

Rare plants

This island of grassland in the urbanized areas still is hosting numerous rare and endemic species. Walker Canyon and its vicinities are one of the few places where one can find Coulter’s Matilija Poppy (Romneya coulteri Harvey), San Bernardino spineflower (Chorizanthe parryi S.Wats.), and many other very rare plants.

Declaration of the area with some protection regime is considered here.

References

1. Riverside County General Plan, accessed on February 27, 2010

Walker Canyon poppy fields are included in the following list:

Brilliant blue and golden hillsides

When driving on the Interstate 5 highway in March – April drivers should be careful when passing by the Gorman Hills. Usually, these hills seem to be naked, grey, and deserted but in spring there happens a miraculous change – steep hillsides color in lively blue, yellow, and orange tints. Better don’t get carried away with the gorgeous sight and look at the road… or, if not in hurry, stop in a suitable place and enjoy this primeval fairness. (Beware of rattlesnakes, especially later in the spring, starting from late March!)

Better don’t get carried away with the gorgeous sight and look at the road… or, if not in hurry, stop in a suitable place and enjoy this primeval fairness.

Most common flower species here are the yellow California tickseeds (Coreopsis californica (Nuttall) H. Sharsmith), blue Bentham lupines (Lupinus benthamii A.Heller), blue bluehead gilias (Gilia capitata Sims) and lacy phacelias (Phacelia tanacetifolia Benth.).

Orange accents are added by the beautiful California poppies (Eschscholzia californica Cham.) in many places forming larger golden-colored meadows.

Floral displays differ from year to year. Sometimes, if there has been a dry winter, there are few flowers but then, if there comes a rainy winter (with rain exactly when needed), the “lost years” are compensated.

Public organizations have called for the creation of a preserve north of Gorman Post Road in order to protect the beautiful wildflower fields.

References

1. Enjoy California’s Open Spaces, Tejon Pass & Gorman Area, accessed on February 25, 2010.
2. Photography by David Senesac, Gorman Hills Easter Eve Wall of Wildflowers, was accessed on February 25, 2010.
3. A Vision for Keeping Flower Fields Forever, accessed on February 26, 2010.

Flower fields of Gorman Hills are included in the following list:

Nowadays this is protected area – Antelope Valley California Poppy Reserve.

In earlier times Antelope Valley was not as desert-like as it is today. There is archaeological evidence of a rather dense population of diverse indigenous people, the valley was rich with pronghorn antelopes (giving a name to the whole valley) and other animals. There were more springs and small lakes and taller plants than today.

The last centuries though have been drier and gradually the western part of the valley turned into arid land similar to a desert. In fact, it is considered to be a high desert: the area is up to 900 meters (3000 feet) high.

Droughts have defeated some plants and animals but others have flourished in these harsh conditions. The term “flourish” is especially suitable for the California poppy. This joyous, bright orange and fragile flower prefers dry soil and hates to be disturbed by a shadow from taller plants or continuous disturbance by grazers.

Friends discover poppy

Although California was visited by white people for several centuries, the bright orange poppy was described by scientists only in the early 19th century.

In the early 19th century Russian Empire organized several rather successful voyages around the world to extend the political and economic contacts of the empire. During such voyages groups of scientists traditionally were taken aboard. Brig “Rurik” made its trip in 1815 – 1818 and the botanist of the team was German Adelbert von Chamisso but entomologist – Baltic German from present-day Estonia Friedrich von Eschscholtz. Both became close friends during the expedition and when Chamisso described the beautiful orange Californian flower, he named the plant after his friend – Eschscholzia californica Cham. Letter “t” somehow is lost from the family of Eschscholtz in the Latin name of the plant.

Painter protects poppy field

The beautiful flower became a state flower of California in the late 19th century (some sources state – in 1903) and nowadays it is prohibited to pick, destroy or uproot this plant in its natural habitats.

Unfortunately, this prohibition is not very efficient if housing is developed in former meadows – over the last decades’ fields of poppies sometimes are replaced by houses with lawns.

The only protected poppy meadow in California is Antelope Valley California Poppy Reserve. This area is closely connected with the personality of Jane Seymour Pinheiro (1907 – 1978). She moved over here, to Quartz Hill, in 1942 and became a well-known painter of poppies drawing them in watercolor with botanical precision. “Poppy lady” was behind the creation of the reserve and the interpretive center (Jane S. Pinheiro Interpretive Centre) of the reserve is named after her. She organized the purchase of poppy meadows in the 1960s together with other active women of the Lancaster area – this land forms a contemporary reserve.

How to experience poppies

Flowering time of California poppies in Antelope Valley may differ each year – but for the most part, it lasts from late February to mid-May.

Unfortunately there are years when poppies are scarce – such as a few years after 2005. Follow the information about the expected bloom time at the Website of California State Parks.

Reserve will provide services and access for cars only during the flowering season. In the remaining part of the year, the reserve is accessible to the public in the daytime, but one should leave the car further away.

Bear in mind that poppies are sensitive to weather conditions: in harsh, windy weather they close and may not open if the weather is cloudy. Often there is a chilly wind in afternoons – better come earlier.

Come on weekdays – then you will have better chances to be alone with the unique nature of California.

Beware of rattlesnakes, especially in late spring – stay on pathways. Don’t take pets with you, and, of course, don’t pick flowers.

References

1. California State Parks. Antelope Valley California Poppy Reserve SNR., accessed in the 21st February 2010
2. Horticulture Information Page.
3. Ask.Art. Jane Seymour Pinheiro, accessed in the 21st February 2010

Antelope Valley Poppy Reserve is included in the following list: